Made with cane sugar

Spiral cut sweet potato, deep-fried, coated with sugar and cinnamon

 Just a few of the wonderful items you can ingest at the Texas State Fair. The deep-fried butter was the winning entry in 2009.

Deep-fried BUTTER with cherry syrup

Deep-fried peaches and whipped cream

Jalapeno cheese corn dog

Shrimp deep-fried corn dog style

The result of eating at the State Fair

Eatin' In The 'Hood - Red Jade 245 Church St., between Market & 15th, SFCA

  I've eaten here a couple of times before, and I've never expected much. When a Chinese restaurant doesn't print their menu with Chinese names for the dishes, this generally means they don't count on having too many Chinese customers, and when that's the case I don't expect the highest quality of food. Also, when they advertise themselves as serving 'Mandarin Cuisine' and everyone is speaking Cantonese I feel less confident - trust me, it isn't always thus.
   Pictured here is the Yee Wor Won Ton (7.5) with fresh chicken and bok choy. Maybe it's because I've had a cold, but there was nothing awe-inspiring about this dish. The broth had no discernible flavor and the chicken was undercooked, which isn't unusual for a Chinese restaurant. The won ton had odd skins and a bland pork filling. At least the bok choy tasted like bok choy.
    This is the kind of place that you go to because it's close and they have lunch specials, or you want something to take out. I count yesterday as my last visit.

Save The Blue Fin Tuna!!

   I love blue fin tuna as much as the next guy, but it's being fished out. I strongly urge you to ask your favorite sushi joint if they serve it, and if so, tell them you won't patronize their business until they stop. I am personally going to start calling around town, and when I find a place that serves it I'm going to advise them that they will be listed on this blog, and that readers will be asked to boycott them.

Taco Wars - The Taco Shop at Underdogs, 1824 Irving at 19th Ave., SFCA

    Anyone familiar with Nick's Crispy Tacos and wonders where Nick went, here's your answer. After some tiff with his business partner at the Polk St. site, Nick moved to this location about two years ago. One advantage here is the late hours. On Th-Sat the kitchen is open from 11am to midnight; the rest of the week, 11am to 10pm. They have a full bar and beer by the pint or pitcher.
   The complimentary chips and salsa are house made and decent. The Buffalo Wings (8.5), while not outstanding, were nicely coated with Frank's Hot Sauce and come with the usual carrots, celery and blue cheese dressing. For tacos you have choice a between Mexican Street Style (3 for $6), or Nick's Way (from 3.25 to 5.25), which features a grilled crisp tortilla and a soft tortilla with Monterey Jack cheese, pinto beans, pico de gallo and guacamole. Pictured here are one batter-fried fish taco (4.25) and one carne asada (4.5). You can choose any two tacos for $8.50. If you're not in the mood for tacos, there are quesadillas, regular and breakfast burritos, grilled corn and black bean taco salad, etc. Besides draft beers there bottled and canned selections, wine, sangria and even home made agua fresca. Did I mention Mexican Coke?
   Some may think $4.50 is a bit much for a taco. Well, the Nick's Way tacos are twice the size of a regular taco, so I say go for it!
   Visit the site at: www.tacoshopsf.com

Chez Papa Resto - 4 Mint Plaza, at 5th & Mission, SFCA

    Another fabulous Groupon choice, this time for $75. Chez Papa Resto is a satellite of the original Chez Papa on Potrero Hill, which is still going strong according to the owner. This new post is part of the refurbished Mint Plaza, a welcome addition to the downtown area.
   Yesterday was quite busy, so even with a 1pm res, we still had to wait about 15 minutes for our table, so how better to kill time than with a Hendrick's Gibson (11) with a generous pour of around 3 1/2 to 4 oz. Janet was tea-totalin' it with, well, Iced Tea (3.5).
   After being seated, we kicked things off with an Endive and Arugula Salad (9), graced with candied walnuts, Bleu d'Auvergne, apples, shallots and a whole grain mustard vinaigrette. To accompany that, we also had the Lady Apple Tart (9) with more Bleu d'Auvergne, arugula, shallots and a sherry vinaigrette. I think we (or I) overdid it with the same cheese and the same arugula with shallots. If I'd known there would be shallots on both I would have asked to have them excluded on one. Also, I think cheddar is what belongs on anything with apples and crust. The crust, btw, was not a flaky one like I had hoped for - this dish would have excelled if it'd been baked in a ramekin of sorts with flake crust.
   On the subject of main courses, Janet immediately went for the Monkfish Medallions (17) with Italian butter beans, cavolo nero and beurre noisette. I didn't sample it but she said it was fabulous, and the woman knows her fish. It's too bad that this great fish is

perilously close to being on the endangered species list. I'm going to have to limit my consumption of it at Sotto Mare, where they fix it with roasted garlic - it is to die for! But we digress. Man cannot live by oatmeal alone, so I ordered the Grilled Flatiron Steak (22) with frites, bone marrow gremolata, green salad and veal jus. Perfectly cooked, good sized portion but lacking a good corn-fed flavor, even though it was corn-fed. A glass of Gundlach-Bundschu Cab 2006 (14) didn't have the body to stand up to this steak. I should've had iced tea like my companion.
  We agreed that one dessert was sufficient and tried the Orange Blossom Panna Cotta (8) which was outstanding, with a nice little crust on top and a Double Espresso (3.75) to ease it down.
   While Janet believes this was on a level with our meal at Cotogna, I'd have to say close but not quite.

Bill vs. Crab, Round Three - Happy Garden, 815 Clement St. at 9th Ave.

  Okay, we've had our annual Crab Louis at Swan Oyster Depot and our Crab Cocktail at Sotto Mare, and now I'm happy to say we've had our first, but not last, Chinese-style crab of the season. At right is a Salt and Pepper Crab (10.99) from the Happy Garden Restaurant on Clement. While the water in the tank was a bit murky, this was a sweet tasting crab, big enough for one or two people intent on crab and little else. And of course you can get it cooked other ways, like the traditional Cantonese version with ginger and scallions. The best part of this whole deal is that Anthony Bourdain didn't go here on his recent San Francisco edition of "No Reservations". If you're really stupid, you can now go to the R&G Executive Lounge, as he did, and pay $38 for the same crab!!

What To Eat On A Cold Day...

   My original intention was to have a whole crab for lunch at Z&Y yesterday. However, when I was advised of the price (over $20) I opted for something a little less expensive but just as rewarding. The Spicy Beef Noodle Soup (6.5) is listed on the smaller lunch special and dim sum menu. You can have it as hot as you like and that includes chile oil and hua jiao, or Sichuan pepper. The meat is cut paper thin like you would see in a good bowl of pho, and it's tender and full of flavor. The broth is rich, with a subtle hint of 5-Spice, and bits of scallion and celery and a garnish of cilantro. You also have a choice of noodles, and I chose the egg variety. I like the fact that there is plenty of meat in proportion to the noodles, which I don't normally find to be the custom. Well, I'm off to see how much crab costs in the Richmond!

Eatin' in The Mission - Haltun, 2948 - 21st St. at Treat, SFCA

   Yucatecan cuisine seems to be on the rise here, with at least three successful locations in the Mission. Haltun has gotten good response and reviews elsewhere, and I decided to check it out. Even though it's been open for a while, it looks as though they started yesterday. There is little in the way of atmosphere and decor, with some patches of wall that need to be painted. But of course the food is what really matters.
   Being health conscious for one moment, I ordered a glass of Maranon (3), made with cashew fruit and pineapple. Imagine a tilde over that first 'n' - someday I'll learn how to add diacritical marks. This was a nice little concoction, not overly sweet. Tobias had beer, as is his wont.
   From the apps menu, a combo of  Panucho (2), a lightly fried hand-made corn tortilla topped with black bean puree, shredded chicken, pickled cabbage, red onion and avocado; Prawn Empanada (3), corn dough filled with shrimp and topped with tomato sauce and cheese; and Dzoto-Bi-Chay (3), a corn dough dumpling filled with crushed pumpkin seeds and hard-boiled eggs, wrapped in red chard leaves, steamed and served with tomato-onion sauce. This last item was the least exciting, Tobias describing the texture as that of a tennis ball. Not a whole lot in the flavor category. The panucho is another way of saying tostada and I could easily eat four or five of these. I have a feeling the shrimp were frozen, but the empanada was still very savory.
   For a main, I had the Relleno Negro (10.5), which is described as 'shredded turkey and pork meat loaf in a black mole sauce'. As it turns out, the two meats aren't blended into a meat loaf - only the pork, and the server neglected to tell me they were out of it. What I did get was a lot of turkey in a very soupy broth, not the usual style of mole I'm accustomed to. This had good flavor, with a bite of pepperiness at the finish. I could have used some sort of vegetable with this; it comes with rice studded with peas and carrots.
    Tobias had the Beef Chile Relleno (11.5) which looked really good, except my man thought the meat looked a little too pinkish. Turns out it's cooked with annatto, which turns anything red. They told us that after they'd gone ahead and replaced it with nice steak. Argh, communication problems. Both the chef and the server were apologetic and concerned about our opinions of the food, which tells me they want to get it right, and that means I'll definitely give it another go around in the feature!!
   To see the menu and details about their Happy Hour, go to: www.haltunsf.com

Brain Food

   Are you growing more concerned about the seafood you eat? Where it comes from, its health aspects, sustainability, scarcity, etc.? You now have a source to help you make the right decision on what to buy. Check it out at: www.foodandwaterwatch.org/fish/seafood/guide/

The Hottest Pepper In The World

   Everybody's been talking about these peppers but nobody had them or knew where to get them. They range, on average, one million Scoville Heat Units, about two to three times hotter than an habanero or red savina. That is truly hot, my friend. I took a small nip and stuck it down twixt cheek and gum, just like a pinch of Skoal. It definitely had the saliva flowing. I bought these online, simply because I've been unable to find any at local Indian food purveyors. I've since found another site that has a broader range of products utilizing this pepper. If you're a true chile head, check it out at:
www.jolokiapepper.com

Another Bund Friday...

   The lovely Kimberly paid a surprise visit at lunch time and we added two new dishes to the collection. Both of these were listed on the 'Lunch Special' section, but they can be ordered a la carte if you don't want a lot of rice. On top is the Celery with Ham, which is actually what is called 'Chinese bacon'. This is salt-cured, air-dried pork belly - which I'm going to attempt to make at home - that is an acquired taste. I would like to see this made with smoked ham.
   The Sesame Chicken bears a close resemblance to Gen.Tso's chicken but with less crunchiness. This was very sweet and a little heavy handed with the cornstarch, not a dish I would be inclined to order again. Altogether, not the most exciting meal I've had at Bund, but I'm not finished with the menu yet!

Smokin' Warehouse - 1465 Carroll Ave., between Ingalls & Jennings, SFCA

   Details here are going to be a little sketchy because I didn't actually go to this place. My illegitimate son Tobias lives close to it, which is way out in the Outer Third area close to Candlestick Park. It's a walk-up window, like Little Skillet, but apparently they will put out a table in good weather. They're open at 7:30am to 7pm M-F, 11 to 3 on Sat.
   Pictured here is the Rib and Brisket Combo (13.5) with one beef rib, one spare rib, brisket, slaw, steak chili and cornbread. You can't see the brisket, can you? Well, that's because there wasn't much of it. Anybody who's been to Texas, the Brisket Capitol of The World, knows you get it in 1/4 increments at most places, and it's sliced thin. This was thick and somewhat dry. I'm not a beef rib fan, but I saved most of this one for a little late night snack after work. The spare rib was nice and meaty, tender and not falling off the bone, which is the way it should be. The rub had a subtle taste of cumin and their sauce is decent; they just don't give you enough of it, so ask for extra. The slaw was average and the steak chili was, well, not as good as mine. The last place I had good chili in this town was at Bull's Texas Restaurant, which used to be at Market and Van Ness. Theirs was made from the 'brownies' of brisket and was just killer. But I digress. The cornbread was nice and moist, but where was that pat of butter?
   I definitely want to go and check out the rest of menu and see what a whole slab of ribs goes for!

Tres agaves - 130 Townsend St. at 3rd, SFCA

   One might ask, why eat Mexican food outside the Mission? Because one had another one of those pesky coupons for $50 ($25 actual cost) and it seemed like a good way to start a Sunday. I snagged my home fry Glenn who lives nearby and we had ourselves a good ol' time, beginning with a couple of House Margaritas (7 each) and some Guacamole (8.5). A good sized guac, but a bit too much onion for my taste. I didn't let that stand in my way.
   From the side dish section, we chose the Elote (3), which is composed of shaved corn, chile, cotija cheese and cream. This stuff is addictive, very rich and not to be shared with the children; some Black Beans (2) and an Ensalada (2) with cabbage, chile, onion and mango, also very tasty. 
   All the tacos sounded good but Glenn definitely had to have the Pescado (3 for 12.95) and of course when you see duck these days you have to have that, so I ordered the Pato (3 for 9.95). The pescado utilized grilled mahi mahi, sweet pepper slaw, chipotle mayo and pico de gallo. I'm almost ashamed to say it but this was the first time I ever had fish tacos - don't ask me why. These were excellent, as were the duck. And if you order additional trios of tacos, they deduct $2 off the price. You may say, gosh, I know a lot of places where the tacos are a $1.50. That's all well and good and I'm more likely to go to those places myself. On the other hand, if I want to grab a bite before or after a Giants game, or someone's relatives are in town and don't want to go some pace where the pigeons walk around freely picking at leftovers, or I want to sample a wide variety of tequilas without feeling like sardine (as in Tommy's), this is the place. It's a large space

with banquet facilities, and did I mention that they have ice cold Negro Modelo (5)? Our total with tax tip and HSF service charge was about $25 a person, with the coupon.
To see the full menu go to:www.tresagaves.com

Christmas Cheer

   I'm not a beer snob - if it's hot enough and I'm thirsty enough, I'll drink just about anything. I don't have a subscription to Celebrator, but I'll glance at copy once in a while. I do like to try new and different things, and when the holidays roll around Christmas brews are a must. The first two tastings of the season are pictured here, the St. Bernardus Christmas Ale and the Santa's Little Helper Imperial Stout. Both are priced at $12.99 and are available at the City Beer Store, 1168 Folsom St.
   St. Bernardus Abbey has been brewing in West Flanders, Belgium since 1946, and this is the 'youngest' product in their line. After maturing in tanks for three months, the ale is bottle conditioned, allowing for natural carbonation and possible storage for up to 15 years. It is 10% alcohol and has a nice deep amber color with a thick creamy head and slightly hoppy finish. This is a 750ml (25.4 oz.) size. I highly recommend a bottle or two.
   A number of brewers are now aging some of their product in bourbon barrels, and Port Brewing in San Marcos, CA, is among them with this stout. This is a 22 oz. bottle with 10% alcohol, and there is little or no carbonation. If you're a fan of cask-conditioned ales, this is for you. They say carbonation is hard on the colon, but I still prefer it. There's plenty of that chocolate and coffee flavor found in imperial stouts, and serving it just below room temp may be preferable. Try it starting at just out of the fridge and work your way down.

Cotogna - 490 Pacific Ave., at Montgomery, SFCA

   I let Patty Untermann scoop me again, darnit!! However, we did get the added bonus of seeing Joe Montana and his lovely wife Jennifer seated a few tables away at this new expansion effort by neighboring Quince. You've got your 'rustic' look with brick, wood, a metal counter and the ubiquitous wood-fired oven and grill.
   More importantly, you've got some fine Italian-oriented food here. Janet and I concurred on the Tartare of Halibut, with crisp flat bread, and the House Made Ricotta, with wild mushrooms and crostini. Both of these come under the heading of antipasti, all of which are $10. The halibut was pristine and lightly seasoned, rich in flavor and texture. I may have to learn how to make my own ricotta at home after having tasted this marvelous concoction, nicely paired with mild-tasting 'shrooms that didn't challenge the creamy cheese.
   We couldn't say no to pizza, and Cotogna offers two versions at $15 each. Pictured here is the Pizza with Broccoli di Ciccio, fresh cayenne and sausage. Thin crispy crust, sufficiently scotto ('burnt'), easy on the sauce and cheese, just the way I like it. This pie, with a couple of salads and a glass of wine, would make a nice lunch for any two people. But being the little piggies that we are, we had to have a main course, that being the Rosemary Gnocchi with Braised Duck (16). If you go to this restaurant, you MUST have this dish. 'Fluffy little pillows' is one of those descriptive terms that has been over-worked, but it still applies here. Duck is everywhere, of course - I kept expecting to see one pop out of my toilet any day now. It does lend itself to an amazing sauce here and makes it my pick as winner on this occasion.
   We just couldn't stop there, so we ordered the Bonet with Caramel (7) served with crumbled amaretti. It sounds French but it's pronounced bow-NET. This is a custard from the Piemonte area of Italy and what you would call 'homey', served in little mom and pop trattorias. There are a number of variations and most of them have some kind of chocolate layer on top; some are made with the amaretti crushed and blended into the custard before baking. Anyway, if you like panna cotta and you want to try something slightly different, this is it. A great way to end this beautiful Friday lunch.
   For more info go to: www.cotognasf.com

Cheesesteak Wars - Phillies, 932 Geneva Ave., between Mission & London

    It had been a while since my last indulgence in a high fat gut bomb, so it tasted even that much better. Phillie's has been in business for almost a year and they still haven't gotten a beer and wine license, nor can they allow you to bring in your own, which was the only downside here. On the other hand, this beautiful, totally non-kosher delight went down just as well with diet Coke. A half pound of top loin on an Amoroso roll wit' Whiz, grilled onion and both sweet and hot cherry peppers - you can't beat it for $6.50. The Onion Rings (2.50) were a bit on the oily side, suggesting that the oil may not have been hot enough. Still, not bad for batter-fried, which I normally don't care for. Someone in this town will learn how to double dip in seasoned flour, one of these days.
   If you're a chicken lover, you can substitute white breast meat on any of the sandwiches. There's also the Breakfast Philly (6.5) with eggs, steak, onions and cheese and they have Tater Tots (2.5). Vegetarians can enjoy a meatless variation, cooked on a separate grill.
For more info, go to:www.philliessf.com

...But I Found Some!!

  In my previous post, I talked about the scarcity of the Sierra Nevada Northern Hemisphere Harvest Ale.
I just paid my first visit to the City Beer Store at 1168 Folsom, between 8th and 7th, and wonder of wonders, they had seven bottles left. Naturally, being selfish, I bought them all. But I will tell you that Berkeley Bowl (the new one) is where I bought my first one, so they may have some left. If you're a beer aficionado you should drop into City Beer Store and say hello to Craig or his lady, buy some beer to take home or enjoy some right on the premises. They have a great selection of micros and Belgians, including the 3 liter Chimay Blue Label, and Christmas ales. Tell 'em Chili sent ya!

Good But Hard To Find

  I'm going to be mean and not tell you where I bought this beer, because I need to go back and get some more for myself, and it may be gone already. This is a 'wet hop' ale, so-called because the hops are delivered within 24 hours of harvesting to the brewery. It's a rich, dark ale with hints of coffee and chocolate (I'm starting to sound like a wine snob, huh?) with it's 6.7% alcohol and it pours with a thick, creamy head almost like Guinness. It's a 24 oz. bottle and it's strictly seasonal, so if you don't get any this year pray that you'll live 'til next fall.