Chenery Park - 683 Chenery St., near Diamond, SFCA

    I've been going to Chenery Park since they opened, and I'm friends with the owners, the head chef and my long time pal and drinking buddy Chet Rielly, the pastry chef. I had a Groupon for $40, so I asked Chet to join me after he got off work this last Sunday. I must say that this resto is still consistently good after all these years, cranking out their version of American/Southern/Fusion food that satisfies on all levels.
   Chef Richard Rosen is a graduate of places like Boulevard and Florio, who continues to be innovative and believes in making as much of the foodstuffs used on the menu from scratch as he can, including the Hot Link in pic #4, made with dry-cured sirloin and fresh pork. These are featured as part of Thursday's BBQ menu, but he was kind enough to comp a couple for us ol' timers.
   At the top are the Cambozola Beignets (9 for 3, add 1 for 2 more). You put Cambozola on anything, I'll eat it!. These are served warm, with endive leaves holding poached figs and julienned Fuji apple in a mango vinaigrette. Just outstanding.
   Next is the Summer Salad (10, split add 2), with lolla rossa (red loose leaf lettuce) in lemon dressing, and Brentwood corn in a butter lettuce cup with tomato vinaigrette. Not only visually appealing, but light on the taste buds and a wonderful blend of flavors.
   Thankfully, the menu allows different portion sizes for some dishes, such as the Gumbo (10 for small, 17 for large), made with chicken, Louisiana Gulf shrimp and house made andouille sausage in a medium dark roux. A number of Southern dishes here are influenced by Gaines Dobbins (who's from Mississippi) who currently oversees the chef's duties at Eureka, Chenery Parks' sister resto in the Castro. I would eat this gumbo anytime if it didn't have Gulf shrimp, which I don't personally care for. Don't let that peccadillo stop you though!
   Next is the aforementioned hot link, served with a little rice and gumbo broth. I told Richard, when he visited the table, that this link surpassed anything we had on our recent BBQ tour of Texas, and I wasn't blowing smoke either. If I didn't work Thursdays I would definitely come in for the BBQ plate.
   For my main I chose the app sized Wild Mushroom Gnocchi (9), just the right amount of those little potato pillows of goodness smothered in a savory mushroom sauce. This rounded out the meal nicely, leaving just enough room for some of Chet's fabulous Warm Bread Pudding with Hard Bourbon Sauce (7) and an Espresso (3).
   Chenery Park is a destination resto for me, and I'm glad I don't live in the neighborhood, cuz that would be trouble. They are accommodating to children on Tuesday evenings and feature specialties on various nights, such as fried chicken. I give them that rare 10 on the Food-O-Meter and I encourage you drop by - reservations are a good idea.
   Visit their web page at: www.chenerypark.com

Morph - 5344 Geary Blvd., between 17th & 18th Aves., SFCA

    Coupon time again - $15 for $30 worth of food and drink. When I arrived I found that Morph resides in what used to be one of my favorite Chinese restos, Dragon House. Usually I don't comment on decor, etc., but I will say that here it's, uh, interesting. Just the clock alone is worth a couple of seconds of your time, so to speak.
   The emphasis here is pan-Asian, concentrating primarily on Japanese and Thai. For thirst quenching, I enjoyed a Lychee Iced Tea (3). They also have mango, apple and Thai iced teas.
   My first app was the Mango Cocoon (8), four black tiger prawns wrapped in filo dough and fried, served with a drizzle of garlic/mango sauce. The trick here is to save all of the little strands of filo and mix them with the sauce, then fork it into your mouth. Dee-lish! When I commented to the server how good this dish was, she said it's their number one seller from the app list.
   Number two was the Tuna Tartare (10),consisting of yellowfin, scallion, fried garlic, toasted sesame seeds, togaroshi (chili powder), ponzu, sesame oil and lemon zest, served with fried won ton. This was good but could've maybe used a bit less togaroshi, which tended to mask some of the other flavors. I'm sure you could ask for less or even omit it if you shy away from spicy.
   Not shying away, I ordered the Spicy Pan Fried Udon (8). Well, it wasn't that spicy and was rather oily. The menu stated that it came with gai lan, Chinese broccoli, but when I asked,' where is it?', the server said that it was the green leaves in the dish. I thought it was basil, which was also indicated as being in the dish, but these were bitter. I don't think there was any basil at all, and to use only the leaves from the broccoli makes absolutely no sense (to me anyway, but what do I know?) This was the the weak link in the meal and I wouldn't order it again.
   I think this place merits a return visit for dinner, and I give it a 7 on the Food-O-Meter. To see the menu, go to:www.morphlife.com

Golden Flower - 667 Jackson St., between Grant & Kearny, SFCA

    As you can see, I'm making good on my threat to learn more about Vietnamese food. I've walked by this little place a thousand times on my way to Z&Y or Bund Shanghai and I felt it was time to get it under my belt, so to speak.
   Golden Flower has an extensive menu of over 125 dishes, including a large number of rice plates and vegetarian selections. The menu is written in Chinese as well as English and Vietnamese.
   I decided on the Deep Fried Shrimp Stick (7.55), which is very similar to the sugar cane shrimp we had at PPQ, except that the minced shrimp is wrapped around a much smaller piece of cane. The server verified that you can indeed eat the cane, but it is a bit fibrous and may not be to everyone's liking. It's served with a nice peanut sauce, which makes it a winner over PPQ. A+ on this one.
   Next came the Lemon Rare Beef (7.85), which I assume is the same as what's called carpaccio on other menus. This was also very tasty, with peanuts, lemon and mint and its own mild fish sauce for dipping.
   I've never tried a chicken pho before, and here it's simply called Chicken Noodle Soup (small 5.75). you definitely need to liven it up with a little Sriracha and whatever else floats your boat. There's plenty of shredded white meat, some of it a bit dry and chewy.
   I'm eager to go back and try some of the vegetarian dishes, like the hot and sour soup with pineapple and tomato, and the bean curd in lemongrass sauce. 7+ on the Food-O-Meter.

Louisiana Fried Chicken - at Happy Donuts, 3rd & King St., SFCA

   I was told that this was pretty good fried chicken, so after yesterday's Giants game I thought I'd celebrate by giving it a try. I have to say the crust was cooked to a nice non-greasy crispiness, but way too much salt! Just enough cayenne to give it a little heat and the meat wasn't dry and overcooked like much of the white meat chicken you get in SF. The slaw was a bit creamy and a little bland. The mac 'n' cheese was just like Mom used to make and was still warm after a half hour ride to Lucky 13.
  You can get any combo of pieces you like, and each has a cute baseball theme name. Mine is called the Stolen Base (7.65 with tax) and consists of a wing and breast. All combos come with a choice of two sides and a biscuit.
  I'm seriously going to ask them if they could use less salt, and I need to try Popeye's for comparison. If you're not interested in fried chicken, remember that this a Happy Donuts as well and they have some serious pastry for that pre-game continental breakfast.

Lost Treasures

   Do you have restaurants you miss? I do. That's what happens when you live in the same city for forty-one years. I've decided to commemorate these lost treasures once in a while, just to fill in the occasional gap. This first installment is entitled Sanctified Soul Food.
   One of the reasons I moved to SF was food. Growing up in the Midwest doesn't give one much exposure to foods of the world, even in a large metropolis like Kansas City. Sure, you had Italian and Mexican and maybe one Chinese place, back in the 50's and 60's. But even after coming to SF and trying lots of new cuisines - Indonesian, Hungarian, Basque, Peruvian, etc. - you want a touch of home cookin' once in a while.
   When I moved into my first real living space, it was an old Victorian flat at Bush and Steiner. My roommates were two drag queens, one of whom lived in the others closet - a true closet queen! - and a flighty little secretary who kept to herself and had numerous gentleman callers. They were subletting from three Jewish kids who attended the Art Institute and were back in NYC for the summer. One of the first things I asked was, 'where's a good place to eat around here?' 'Well, there's the Little Mission across the street, if you like that sort of thing.' 'What sort of thing?' 'Soul food.'
   I was out the door in a flash. Unfortunately, they didn't open 'til 5pm. I had to content myself with chips and salsa and some Country Club Malt Liquor and a little nap. I woke up feeling hungry at around 5:30. I crossed the street with a certain excitement in my step, and when I opened the door to this plain, white-fronted little building, the aroma nearly knocked me out of my sox. There was only one person sitting and eating, a black man who gave me a funny look, no doubt because I was just standing there sucking in the air and salivating. There was little ambiance, the small tables covered with red and white checkered oilcloth providing the only color. At the back was a short wall separating the kitchen from the dining area, and behind that wall stood a very large, powerful-looking man. If I hadn't known better, I would've sworn it was Howling Wolf, the bluesman. He was easily six-five, with arms that filled out the short sleeves on his white shirt, and probably weighed in at two seventy-five. when I got to the window where he stood, he handed me an ordinary plastic menu holder, a check pad and a pencil.
   "Jes write down whatcha want and give it back to me."
   Inside the plastic cover were the selections of the day, neatly hand-written in pencil on a piece of paper from a Big Chief tablet. There were two main dishes and four or five sides. For $2.50, you got one main and two sides. On a given day you might choose smothered chicken or hog maws and add some slaw, beans, spaghetti, rice, okra, potatoes, tomatoes, etc. As a bonus you got two pieces of what some call 'johnny cakes' or 'corn pone' or 'corn cakes', basically yellow cornmeal batter fried on the grill. You're meal was assembled on a large server's tray and handed to you over the doorway in the wall. You were expected to bus your table.
   Now the kicker to all of this is that in an adjoining room was a small church with its own entrance off of Bush Street. It resembled any number of storefront C.O.G.I.C.'s that I remembered from Kansas City, the kind that had the name on a large Coca-Cola sign over the front window. Our man in the kitchen was known as Brother Parker and he testified every Sunday morning to a small but faithful congregation. This explained the all-gospel jukebox in the cafe. It also explained why, if you brought your dishes to the window completely devoid of food, Brother Parker would ask, 'would you like some more?' I always declined, but I knew it was there just in case. For those without a red cent, an old-fashioned consomme urn was always going, and one could have a bowl for free.
   The Little Mission Cafe was soon known to all ex-KC homies. Friends would drop by my crib and say,'hey, let's go across the street.' 'Aw, man, I just ate.' 'Here, smoke some of this', and five minutes later, off we'd go. To this day, I don't think I've ever had better smothered chicken than Brother Parker's. And I'm not totally sure he cooked everything in the joint. He had an 'assistant' I would occasionally see trundling down the street with a large pot of something, obviously cooked somewhere else - a practice the Health Dept. frowns upon.
   I eventually moved out of the 'hood, but I would round up a couple of folks now and then and head over to see Brother Parker. He remembered all of us and always had that same beatific smile waiting. Progress finally reared it ugly head and the Little Mission Cafe and Chapel were razed to make way for an apartment building. In 1978, I was working in an office downtown, and my boss asked me to pick up a pair of shoes she'd had repaired at a place on Sutter Street. As I stood waiting for the package, I noticed a man shining shoes - it was the 'assistant'!. I asked him, didn't he used to work for Brother Parker?
   'Yep' he said, without looking up.
   'What's he doing now that the cafe's closed?'
   ' Took sick and died last year.'
   I didn't know what to say. I felt confused, angry and somehow, hungry. I went home that night and cooked myself some chicken fried steak with mashed potatoes and cream gravy, peas and corn, and a few 'communion glasses' of good bourbon.

PPQ - 1816 Irving St., at 19th Ave., SFCA

   For those of you from Philly and those who have been to Philly, this resto, Pho Phu Quoc and its neighbor across the street, Pho Huynh Hiep (aka Kevin's Noodle House) are kinda like the Geno and Pat's of the Vietnamese world. There are stout believers in both. This was my first visit to PPQ, as its followers call it, and I found some great things and some so-so things.
   Brian ordered the 5-Spice Chicken Rice Plate (7) seen at the top, which he enjoyed thoroughly. We shared a plate of Deep-Fried Calamari (9.25), cut much like calamari steaks and served with cocktail sauce. The batter provided good crunch and the meat was tender to the bite. A+ for this one.
   Justin opted for the Charbroiled Shrimp Rice Plate (8), cooked in shell. These were medium sized and there probably could have been a few more on the plate. Nothing exceptional.
   I just had to have some paste, so I went for the Satay Beef Noodle Soup (6.75), made with rice vermicelli. I have to say I find the Hue Beef Noodles at Jasmine Garden to be far more satisfying than what I had here -  more meat and more flavor to the broth at the latter. I added a little fish sauce and Sriracha to the noodles seen here and that helped a tad.
   Another shared dish was the Grilled Beef Papaya Salad (8.95). This comes with the nuoc maam dressing on the side, and we tried pouring it on just one half to compare the taste, since Rachel was a little hesitant about fish sauce. I don't blame her, it's an acquired taste of sorts, and a little goes a long way. The meat here was wonderfully seasoned, and the salad was tasty with or without the dressing. They don't make this dish spicy, like the Thai style, but you might be able to get them to jazz it up a bit. Another A+.
  Rachel ordered a dish I hadn't seen before, the Sugar Cane Shrimp with Vermicelli (8). You can also get this as a wrap if you don't want all the noodles. Apparently, the shrimp are mashed and mixed with some other ingredients and then wrapped around pieces of sugar cane and then maybe broiled (I failed to ask those tough questions on this outing). She said the cane did import a nice flavor to the shrimp. I want to go back for the wraps!
   Our final shared dish was the Vegetable Summer Rolls (6.25), served with a soy dipping sauce. You can't go wrong with rolls in this cuisine, whether they're deep-fried, meatless or whatever. The combination of flavors and the ease of consumption makes them the perfect finger food.
   Overall, I'd give this place a 7 on the Food-O-Meter, and I can't wait to go back to Kevin's across the street to decide which place I'm gonna take sides with!

San Dong Revisited - 3741 Geary Blvd. at 2nd Ave., SFCA

   I got a call from Paolo Lucchesi at the Chron asking for another interview to do a real in-print article about the Chinese food quest. He asked if I'd be willing to do a photo shoot and I said yes. So I made a date to eat at San Dong and met a lovely young lady named Michelle, who joined me for lunch, took some pics and listened to me rattle on about this, that and t'other.
   At the top here is a small bowl of complimentary pickled cabbage, not quite like kimchi, a little bit sweeter and not fermented. For apps I chose the Cucumber with Garlic Sauce (3.99) and the Drunken Chicken (5.99). These are both fairly common dishes you see in a lot of Shanghai/Sichuan/Hunan eateries. They're especially good during warm weather. The cucumber could have used a little more crispness. The chicken is simply boiled and then sliced, bone-in, and steeped in Chinese rice wine, or shao shing.
   In my first visit I tried the dan dan mian, a staple of Sichuan cuisine, which is simply noodles in a spicy meat sauce. Here at San Dong, they specialize in shou la mian, or 'hand-pulled noodles'. You can see (and hear) the man in the rear of the resto making the noodles to order as he slams the dough on the table and then twists and turns it until you have fresh noodles, all with no knife. They feature 20 varieties and pictured here is the Sour Vegetable Pork Noodles Soup (6.99). I still have to find out what the vegetable actually is, since the Chinese characters on the menu literally translate to 'sour vegetable'. I will say this was pretty bland and needed something to get it up on its feet. I took most of it home and mixed it with some Italian vegetable soup given to me by Ms. Rachel and added a little hot oil and that did the trick.
   On my next visit I aim to try some of the BBQ'ed items on the menu.

Free Lunch, Anybody? - Comstock Saloon, 155 Columbus Ave., SFCA

    For a limited time only, Jonny Raglin is offering a free lunch, M-F. All you have to do is buy two cocktails or two glasses of wine or a combination  - I had an excellent Old Fashioned and a glass of red - and you're set. On this particular Friday, the freebie consisted of two house made brats (third from the top) with arugula salad, spicy whole grain mustard and toast. The picture may make them appear to be larger than they are, they were about six inches long. And they were good.
   My lovely companion Kimberly decided to have the prix fixe ($20), with a Chicken Rice Soup and Pig in a Biscuit, seen at the bottom. These little pork rillette sliders were seasoned with a secret spice combo, of which Jonny admitted that one was allspice. Kimberly was quite taken by them and said that the cook should get her own restaurant!!
   At the top you see a nice little comped dish of hard-boiled egg and bacon crostini. I'm told the summer menu is returning this week, which should include one of my favorite apps, the jalapeno fritters. And if you stop in and decide not to have a free lunch, try the Chicken Fried Rabbit or the Bone Marrow and Beef shank Pot Pie.

Noeteca - 1551 Dolores, at Valley St., SFCA

    I never would have known about this place if it hadn't been for yet another coupon. I have made a solemn vow not to buy any more until I've used all the ones I've got!
   In business for almost two years now, they serve an eclectic breakfast, brunch and dinner, opening at 8am M-F, 8:30 Sat. and Sun. They offer eight organic, fair trade coffees, including two decafs, one-cup-at-a-time or French press, with names like 'Fog Lifter' and 'Jet Fuel'.
   There is a nice selection of cheeses and a salumi platter available, as well as specialty sandwiches like the Croque Napoleon and Croque Josephine. Tarte Flambee - Alsace inspired thin flatbread pizza - comes in four styles, and a number of salads are also on hand.
   We decided to go with a Black Forest Ham and Swiss Sandwich (8.95), seen at the top, and Kris's Chicken Salad Sandwich (9.95). Both came on toasted Il Fornaio sourdough bread and were simple but filling. Tobias did get a piece of cartilage in the chicken, but other than that he said it was good. The salad had a nice vinaigrette dressing and made for good value.

   Of course there's room for dessert! The semi-atomic looking number is the Raspberry-Coconut Snow Ball (7), made by a local company called Sweet Perfection. This is a 'Bon-Bon' of vanilla sponge cake filled with pastry cream and raspberry preserves, covered in coconut-infused whipped cream and coconut flakes. Oh my, was it good. For a companion, I chose the Torta Della Nonna (6), a lemon pastry cream tart baked in pine nut short crust, topped with pine nuts, lemon rind and powdered sugar. This and one other dessert are actually imported from Italy. We washed it down with a Double Espresso (2.5).

    There is a good selection of imported beers to choose from, but they're priced at $8, a bit steep in my estimation. We had three, which amounted to about half the bill!
   If I lived in the neighborhood I would probably frequent this establishment on a regular basis. If you live nearby, I say check it out.

Dinosaurs - 2275 Market, between Noe and Sanchez, SFCA

   I'm no authority on banh mi, the current darling of the sando set. I'm told that Saigon Sandwich on Larkin St. is the benchmark, and since I'm now on a Vietnamese jag, I'm sure I'll get to it soon. In the meantime, I bought a coupon for this little place, actually located on the 16th St. side of the mini-mall at 2275 Market. They've been in business for about one year and they say they're doing quite well. You have a choice of about seven different meats or non-meat fillings, and I chose The Special (4.75), which is roast pork and is the only one that comes with the pate spread. All sandos come with the pickled carrots and daikon, jalapenos, etc. on a toasted roll. This whole layout here, with snow pea crisps and green tea, came to a whopping $9. You don't get a ton of pork, but it's still a filling sando for the money. I'm looking forward to finding the best banh mi in SF!

Amber India - 25 Yerba Buena Lane, off Market between 3rd and 4th St., SFCA

    My esteemed colleague Doug Baker chose this place as our annual Dine-About-Town lunch date. Amber India has four locations around the Bay Area, and this was my first encounter with them. The first encouraging sign was the number of Indian customers, almost 75% of the diners present that Wednesday. The majority of people were enjoying the buffet, which appeared to have a larger selection than most Indian eateries. We had to be different and order the Prix Fixe, $17.95. For our first course, I chose the Palak Chaat, crispy spinach topped with yogurt and tamarind chutney. I love this stuff!! Mr. Baker had the Baluchi Chicken Tikka, a boneless chicken leg seasoned with 'northwest frontier' spices. This was also tasty, albeit a bit dry for my taste.
   For the main we both opted for the Kashmiri Roganjosh,  a standard dish of lamb seasoned with saffron, ginger and fennel seeds. I asked for a little extra heat - I usually like lamb vindaloo, or anything else done vindaloo style. This was a nice curry, served with saffron pulao and a rich dal made with butter, cream and tomato. To mop things up, some nice onion stuffed kulcha, warm and crispy.
   I definitely want to sample the buffet on a future visit, and I think dinner would also be in order. This place might be a bit upscale for some, but they do eschew tablecloths, and there is a full bar.
   To visit their website, go to:www.amber-india.com

The Cheesesteak Shop - 1716 Divisadero at Sutter, SFCA

   Most of you are probably familiar with this institution, the first of its kind in SF and the favorite of many a steak head. I had a free sando card that been sitting in my wallet for about a year so I decided I'd better quit fooling around, and I got this lovely 10" Garlic Cheesesteak (6.79) with grilled onion, sweet and hot peppers and provolone. Free! If you're not hip to the card, you get a stamp for every 6" sando you buy and when you accumulate 12 stamps, you get a free 10" of your choice. The bonus is that Tuesdays and Sundays are now both 'double stamp days', so you can fill that card in six visits. And the 24 Divisadero bus stops right in front...

Taqueria Zorro - 308 Columbus Ave. at Broadway, SFCA

   Michael Manson warned me not to go to this place, but I had a coupon and I'd sworn to eat at everyplace in North Beach, so there I was. And he was right, it's pretty substandard compared to the ol' Mission District. You see here the Camarones a la Diabla (11.25), a good dish if done right. That's mean fresh shrimp, not frozen, and a sauce that's more than just some watery tomato glop with hot pepper and onions in it.
   I did see Hispanic people eating in there, but they stuck with the quesadillas and whatnot, so maybe that's the way to go. I think I'll just go to someplace on the other side of town.

Jasmine Garden - 708 14th St. at Church, SFCA

    There's nothing like Vietnamese food two days in a row! I've been curious about this location, since the previous incarnation was also Vietnamese, but didn't make it for one reason or another. It's close to home and handy to eat at before going to the Lucky 13 for Bible Study.
   The Imperial Rolls (6.5) were a perfect way to start. Good spicy, garlicky pork filling, crispy and served with the ubiquitous sweet and sour dipping sauce. I saved half to take home and enjoy with the green papaya salad from My Father's Kitchen. This hit the spot at 11 o'clock that night!
   Why not have pho two days in a row? I've been laying off the white foods for a while, and there was a craving that needed to be addressed. Pictured here is the Hue Beef Noodle Soup (7.25), with a delicious spicy broth that had the perfect nuoc maam finish, so that none need be added for my taste. There is only one size and it's substantial, using rice vermicelli and what appeared to be eye of round, of which there was a good amount. And yes, they had sprouts and basil.
   This is another neighborhood place that does not necessarily cater to a Vietnamese clientele, but I'm willing to go back. If only they had durian shakes...

My Father's Kitchen - 1655 Divisadero at Sutter, SFCA

   Officially starting my new quest for the best in Vietnamese food was this little spot near Mt. Zion Hospital. They've been in business for about a year and a half and doing quite well, at least at lunchtime.
   I got things going with the Green Papaya Salad (6.50), very similar to the som tum you get at Thai restos. This version comes with that good sweet/sour minty flavor that becomes addictive. In addition, there are julienned pieces of pork and halved shrimp on top, a nice touch. I ate half and took the rest home for a late night snack.
   I was in the mood for pho and decided on the small bowl with brisket, flank and eye of round. No tendons or tripe here. The server brought a small dish with a wedge of lemon and some small slices of jalapeno or perhaps serrano pepper. When the noodles arrived, I asked where the sprouts and basil were. 'Oh, we don't use that here. I can bring you some cilantro and mint.' Thanks, but no thanks, I want my sprouts and basil!
   At any rate, this was a decent bowl, utilizing the narrow flat rice noodles akin to linguine, and there was a sufficient amount of meat. They have nuoc maam and Sriracha on the table (as you can see) and I was pleasantly satiated.
   The menu is simple and not really oriented toward a Vietnamese clientele. Most of the people I saw looked like locals from the hospital and businesses in the neighborhood. To see the menu, go to:www.myfatherskitchensf.com

Olivia's Mexican Restaurant - 3771 Mission St. near Park, SFCA

  Another coupon destination, another dining disaster. I dragged Rachel and Justin along for this waste of time last Sunday afternoon. We were seated at 12:03. After waiting ten minutes for menus, Justin finally got up and got them himself. We waited another ten minutes for someone to take our order and we could've waited longer if we hadn't flagged down the man who appeared to be the actual cook. Then we waited another 42 minutes to get our food. Rachel and I both ordered Huevos Rancheros and she'd asked for her eggs scrambled; when they arrived they were sunnyside just like mine. So she had to get up and ask for them cooked right. Fortunately, this only took five minutes.
   The Mole Poblano is supposed to be the specialty of the house, and while I thought it was decent, Justin thought it a bit too sweet with not enough smokiness to it. It was quite heavy on the chocolate and cinnamon, which I don't mind.
   The server, when we could get her attention, kept apologizing for the service, saying 'everybody order at once.' Well, if you've been in business as long as these people have, you should be prepared for such things, especially on Sunday at brunch time. It's not that big a space, and there were two women behind the counter who spent a lot of time making sure the glassware was properly aligned and little time checking on the customers. The food was nothing spectacular, not worth waiting for that long.

Regalito Rosticiera - 3481 18th St. at Valencia, SFCA

   I hadn't been to an 'upscale' Mexican restaurant since our visit to Colibri a few years back, so I was anticipating something a little different at Regalito. Well, the Ceviche de Coliflor (8) was about as different as it gets here. And while this was an adequate appetizer, it isn't worth $8, maybe $6 tops. I did notice that the guacamole was made to order and plentiful, and if I was to go back I would definitely order it. But I don't think I'll be going back. While I think the food here is prepared quite well, I don't think it's worth the $$$.
   From the short list of mains I chose the Chile Colorado (18) with rice and refried beans. I can probably go to any other Mexican resto in the Mission and get about twice as much meat for about six to seven dollars less. I like my refritos nice and creamy and these were chunky and flavorless, as was the rice.

   My dining companion Christine chose the Cochinita Pibil (17), a signature dish of the Yucatan, and while it was perfectly tender and moist, it still isn't worth $17. If I were to order something substantial and worth it, it would be the roast chicken.
   Regalito is a small space with trendy decor and an open kitchen and it's situated close to Luna Park, Delfina and Farina, just far away enough from the gritty part of the Mission to appeal to a non-Latin customer base who perhaps don't mind paying a little extra for some sort of piece of mind. This meal, including two glasses of Sauvignon Blanc and a Negra Modelo, plus tax and tip, was about $80. I can probably go to Los Panchos with a party of five and get comparable food for the same amount of money. I can also have a cocktail next door at the Royal Cuckoo, just to get the ball rollin', which all in all sounds like a much better deal!
   To see the menu, go to:www.regalitosf.com

For You Sandwich Hounds...

   I just finished watching (for the second time) a great little documentary from 2003 called Sandwiches That You Will Like, originally shown on PBS. I saw this the first time when I was at Kaiser Hospital a few years back. I wanted to literally reach into the screen and grab some of this stuff. From Philly cheese steaks to muffalettas to chopped chipped ham to hoagies, they covered a wide range in 92 minutes. If you're like me, you keep a folder for every state in the union and you save the websites or addresses, cause you never know where you might be going some day!

The Perry Brothers 2011 Texas BBQ Tour, Pt. 3 - Day 6

   Saturday morning saw us up and out the door at about 7:30. We were headed to Snow's BBQ, our last stop on this tour. Snow's is about a 45 minute drive NE of Austin, in a little town called Lexington. They are only open on Saturday, at 8am, and are often out of meat by noon. When Texas Monthly compiled their 50 Best BBQ's, Snow's rated #1, and I can see why. All the meat was tender and flavorful, the ribs grease free and not fatty, the in-house links had a good coarse grind and subtle spice, the brisket melted in your mouth. The house sauce was pretty good and the potato salad the best I had the whole trip, mainly because they make it themselves. We were definitely happy campers!
   Charles and I agree that Snow's and Black's were neck and neck for 1st and 2nd place, and they blew everyone else out of the water. Charles also asked me to comment on the lamentable fact that every single place we visited used Styrofoam cups for side dishes and drinks, all utensils were plastic and you either ate off of a paper plate or sheet of butcher paper. I guess that saves you money on a dishwasher, but I think it's time Texas caught up with the rest of the country.
   And lastly, I've said it before and I'll say it again, BBQ from Missouri and Tennessee is still the best!